Skip to main content

Good business, and not

A late summer respite does a lot for clearing one's mind. August was that for me and I have returned refreshed ...and confused. Earthquake, hurricane (returned during that) and a public malaise that runs deep and wide. Still, while public confidence has plummeted, many luxury marketers report strong sales increases.

Is there hope? I would cautiously venture a yes.  Of course, it depends on where one sits. 


We think of the jewelry world as having somewhat different rules than the rest of the fashion and gift world, but it isn't so.  I recently attended the monster gift show at the Javits Center and saw the same range of winners and sufferers that we see at jewelry shows.  I was concentrating on visiting jewelry companies, but took some time to see what other vendors were doing.  As in jewelry, the busy booths had products that were immediately of interest, tended towards much better quality, and were well-packaged and presented.  As would be expected of a show this size, there were many booths with cheaply made goods, and those tended to be quiet.  The buyers present (and there were thousands) were searching for innovation and lasting value.  In jewelry, it was the same story.


A conversation this week with a leading independent jeweler, while anecdotal, confirms a feeling we have heard expressed over the last weeks.  Yes, the public is uncertain about the economy.  The stock market is wildly volatile, and large companies are still cutting jobs.  But this retailer had the best June and July in their history, and August looks to be the same.  Why?  The difference, according to him, is that his clientele is affluent, and no longer suffers from the shocks of 2008 and 2009.  They are buying for occasions, not impulsively, but they are spending.

To use an old real estate cliche, the three most important things to consider are location, location and location.  In jewelry, that has become particularly important, though long history, consistent marketing, good merchandising and great service all have to be there too.  This retailer agrees with all of that.  But, in his words, "I here a lot of grumbling in the business, about how bad it is.  Today, if you are not established in an affluent community, you are in trouble."

Very true, though this is not a new trend, but one made far more prominent by the economic strains we feel - never mind the surge in gold, diamond and gem stone prices. It is well documented that middle class wages have been treading water since the mid-70's.  Employers have seen a growing labor pool as consolidation, out-sourcing, automation, and rapidly advancing technologies have steadily reduced the need for employees.  New, high tech companies do not need many employees, nowhere near the hundreds of thousands that used to be employed in large manufacturing businesses.  That means that most wage-earners have little bargaining power.

I am not an economist, but it does not take a graduate degree to understand that the rich are getting richer, and a large portion of the population is getting short shrift.  This is a large problem that will take years to solve, even with the best efforts of politicians (anyone care to count on that?).  In the meantime, high material prices and limited buying power will cause the mid-market difficulties for years.  The business will be evermore with the affluent, and at the bottom of the price range. 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Diamond headaches today, a different world tomorrow

The diamond business still cannot seem to get weaned off mama De Beers.  That is not in the way of a complaint to De Beers, but rather an admission that clinging to the old, sheltered ways is gone.  And most of the trade refuses to admit it.  Even the Oppenheimers knew it was time to move on. Sure, a $30 million auction sale is made.  And other big stones are fought over.  But something is wrong at the core of the business.  There are big bankruptcies in Antwerp and Mumbai.  Banks are backing off financing the trade, except for financing solid receivables.  Government authorities are investigating diamond companies in Belgium and India.  De Beers sights are being rejected for lack of money.  Boxes are being sold at discounts - sightholders prefer to take a loss rather than try and convert the goods and lose even more money.  Cutting factories have sharply reduced output, especially on small goods.  And everywhere we hear tha...

The New De Beers

This past week we saw De Beers introduce Lightbox Jewelry, a full-bore, direct to consumer (DTC) retailer that will exclusively use man-made diamonds (MMDs) produced by their Element 6 division.  The concept is neatly packaged to offer a basic selection of body jewelry at moderate prices.  The DTC approach is intended to circumvent the entire traditional channels of distribution established by De Beers over the last century, in an effort to demonstrate that this is just a low-end, low-value product aimed at an under-served public.  De Beers claims that it will only benefit its existing clients by demonstrating how much more valuable "real" diamonds are. This move cam as no surprise at all to me. There are many gaps and holes in this plan, and I will try to outline them in future blog posts. To begin with, I posted three times in 2015 with my views on the subject.  Here are the links to those blog posts, as it would save me time repeating the points I made back...

Where is retail headed?

Nobody knows for sure.  Present trends show that retailers of all sorts are working hard to adapt to a marketplace that is shifting dramatically.  Jewelry retailers are not exempt from this paradigm shift, but their issues are not quite the same as for other retailers, and that holds true for most of their suppliers. Stated quickly, what are the specific issues confronting traditional jewelry retailers? The low end of the market continues to move steadily towards Internet retailers. The low end of any store's business is the traffic builder, and important opportunities to build long term relationships. The low end of the market, now significantly composed of non-precious materials, is appearing in many non-jewelry environments, further diluting the business. The mid-market has been suffering for decades now, but will still serve a substantial part of the public.  It is increasingly owned by larger chains, but faces daunting prospects due to buyer burnout, a very m...