Skip to main content

This year in Las Vegas

The JCK Show marks its 20th year in Las Vegas, and things sure have changed!  Las Vegas became the important battleground for jewelry trade shows, and then economic forces beyond anyone's control disarmed the battle.  Yes, there are still changes (JCK moving to the Mandalay, for example) but the reality has not changed.  There are fewer manufacturers extant that can exhibit--and others that have simply dropped out--and there are ever fewer retailers that can come and buy. 
We should set aside the question of whether this is good or bad; whether in some ways we are better off not having the overheated market of the boom years.  But on the supplier side, we know that we have long suffered from too much capacity, a condition that will probably continue for quite a while.  The low barriers of entry into the business assures that.  And on the retail side, we have undergone many years of consolidation and stratification that has forced retailers to adapt or die.  The mass market now belongs to a handful of big chains, and the independent jeweler now accounts for 40% or 45% of the US market, down from 75% about 30 years ago (as I recall).
So maybe we are approaching a homogenized market, as we have seen for books, drugs and hardware.  Amazon, Rite-Aid and Home Depot (never mind WalMart) have been eminently successful in dominating their market segments, so why not Sterling, Macy's and Sam's? 
I can think of many reasons (so can you), but one good one is the very nature of jewelry.  What we love most about it is the ability to produce enormous variety of innovative designs, and not needing to sell it in big quantities to make a business of it.  Creating jewelry is, after all, an art.  And people know that, and seek it, and will always need it.  Big chains need high volume producers (e.g., half-carat studs, and solitaires) but even they are fully recognizing the value of differentiation, good design, and quality.
I hope the shows can successfully promote these values to retailers and bring them here, for the moment the best place for retailers to find and buy good, new products.  And thereby reinforce jewelry's wonderful heritage.
Don't you agree?

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Diamond headaches today, a different world tomorrow

The diamond business still cannot seem to get weaned off mama De Beers.  That is not in the way of a complaint to De Beers, but rather an admission that clinging to the old, sheltered ways is gone.  And most of the trade refuses to admit it.  Even the Oppenheimers knew it was time to move on. Sure, a $30 million auction sale is made.  And other big stones are fought over.  But something is wrong at the core of the business.  There are big bankruptcies in Antwerp and Mumbai.  Banks are backing off financing the trade, except for financing solid receivables.  Government authorities are investigating diamond companies in Belgium and India.  De Beers sights are being rejected for lack of money.  Boxes are being sold at discounts - sightholders prefer to take a loss rather than try and convert the goods and lose even more money.  Cutting factories have sharply reduced output, especially on small goods.  And everywhere we hear tha...

The New De Beers

This past week we saw De Beers introduce Lightbox Jewelry, a full-bore, direct to consumer (DTC) retailer that will exclusively use man-made diamonds (MMDs) produced by their Element 6 division.  The concept is neatly packaged to offer a basic selection of body jewelry at moderate prices.  The DTC approach is intended to circumvent the entire traditional channels of distribution established by De Beers over the last century, in an effort to demonstrate that this is just a low-end, low-value product aimed at an under-served public.  De Beers claims that it will only benefit its existing clients by demonstrating how much more valuable "real" diamonds are. This move cam as no surprise at all to me. There are many gaps and holes in this plan, and I will try to outline them in future blog posts. To begin with, I posted three times in 2015 with my views on the subject.  Here are the links to those blog posts, as it would save me time repeating the points I made back...

Where is retail headed?

Nobody knows for sure.  Present trends show that retailers of all sorts are working hard to adapt to a marketplace that is shifting dramatically.  Jewelry retailers are not exempt from this paradigm shift, but their issues are not quite the same as for other retailers, and that holds true for most of their suppliers. Stated quickly, what are the specific issues confronting traditional jewelry retailers? The low end of the market continues to move steadily towards Internet retailers. The low end of any store's business is the traffic builder, and important opportunities to build long term relationships. The low end of the market, now significantly composed of non-precious materials, is appearing in many non-jewelry environments, further diluting the business. The mid-market has been suffering for decades now, but will still serve a substantial part of the public.  It is increasingly owned by larger chains, but faces daunting prospects due to buyer burnout, a very m...